Aroma ARC-1000A Manuel d'utilisateur Page 95

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tubes age 95
From: "Kenneth Crips" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [R-390] Tube cutting 101
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 19:07:18 -0700
You are cutting the glass almost the same way glass cutters do it. By the way I
found a source of batteries for the man pack radio that was mentioned here,
the note however was intercepted as having a suspicious header. I am not
sure what I did but if broke a list rule My apologies.
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 10:41:16 +0200
From: "Bryce Ringwood" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [R-390] 6DC6 Replacement
(Warning ! - Sand and deceased gramniverous quadrupeds mentioned) A few
observations:
1. The problem I generally have with sand is interference from nearby ( or
sometimes quite far removed ) strong stations causing intermodulation effects.
Both my homebrew and a well known commercial sand receiver suffer badly.
Thus far, I haven't had any problem with tubes. Even the much maligned (in the
'70s) EF183 gave me great performance.
2. I don't understand the concept behind 'intercept points' and their
measurement very well. Perhaps one of you could explain in terms a non
electrical engineer can understand ? Hope this doesn't become another 6082
saga.
3. If it doesn't glow it doesn't go. The orange LED should be supplemented with
a white LED in series with a capacitor to give that lovely white glow when you
first switch on. White LEDs cost a bit more, but its worth it.
4. Some tubes are supplied with plastic pin straighteners - these just need the
right diameter wire poked through the holes and glued to make a header on
which a small PCB can be mounted.
6. Many tubes will outlast their owners. This is just an FLP ("Fun Little Project").
Making an tube radio solid-state makes no sense other than doing it for its own
sake. People who take their fun seriously will buy a solid state radio.
7. What was 5?
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 08:42:30 -0500
From: "Ray, W2EC" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [R-390] Tube cutting 101
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